11/7/2023 0 Comments Magnavox odyssey yellow![]() ![]() With a FPGA I could scale or re time the signals easily. I will continue to tweak what I have but the end goal is a FPGA based mod which in alot of ways is easier. I have written the code to do this same kind of mod but through a FPGA the problem there is I need a few things I don't currently have on hand. I can button this up inside my console and live with it as is for my uses. What I have laid out is basically a 'passable' way to get video out to a CRT in one form or another. The other idea would be using an normal op amp instead of the THS7374. I am curious if using a D-type flip flop with the NSTC clock would repair any of these issues. The way I am doing is just cheap and easy but by no means perfect. Some improvement may be had with using a different method to sum the colors. Also its interesting that the tearing and sawtooth pattern do not show up on my CRT even right next to the screen. ![]() (It's important to note I also have a different console and it had the same issues.) ![]() I tried adjusting the clock of the console.Īll methods seemed to be the same on my TV. I tried different setups for the THS7374. I tried a mixture of my mod and the G7200 mod. However I still see the remnants of that pattern on my no name video scaler VS my XRGB looks fine besides that tearing. There is also a sawtooth type pattern that was reduced by replacing either C49 or C28. The issue I was seeing is pixels tearing left or right from where they are supposed to be., but only on specific colors. I did get composite to work on a new TV but it looks terrible (poor scaling). Even if you could get straight component to work on a newer LCD TV it would look bad because the TV can't scale cleanly. I can't get this to work on a modern TV without going through a scaler. S video never caught on here in Europe and generally RGB scart was preferred, but again, find a new tv with a scart port.Īlso, the C7051? That's another thing on my wish list! Looks good! I think for me component is slightly more future proof, although even that is appearing less and less on new tvs. I will try component later but I would guess it will only give a slight improvement over S-Video. I played this on my CRT through composite and S-Video and it looks a 100 times better than through my scaler (XRGB). I need to change the capacitors and voltage regulator so some video aberrations could be from that. The reason I don't have closer numbers is because I do not actually have the specific resistors I need and had to daisy chain 5% tolerance ones. The ratio I am using is supposed to be 2.5. It may be best to tie a pot between the pulldowns and ground so saturation can be adjusted manually. The sum can be easily adjusted with the pulldown being higher/lower. The ratio between low sat and medium sat is what matters most. The video is currently over saturated which is what these scope readings are showing. This abomination is what I've been testing on << That is not what the end board will look like at all., the end PCB will only be around 2x2 inches or smaller. ![]() Sometime after the 8th I will have a batch of prototype boards. One specific thing I noticed was a noticeable difference in the color output compared to RGB. Ill make two versions one that uses the BH7236AF to get all the video formats out and another that has RGB and Component only but uses newer more reliable to source components in case those BH7236AF encoders dry up. Having Y (from s-video) means you can easily get YPbPR (component) from mixing the RGB out of the BH7236AF encoder. Feel like im speaking into the wind.Īnyway I had a broken NES RGB board laying around so I was able to use the BH7236AF to get Y/C and CV out.įor my uses this means not only can you get RGB, S-Video, and CV. I really dont want to keep double posting. ![]()
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